Gray steel scissors

Steel Types

Your shears are only as dependable as the alloy they are forged from. Steel dictates how sharp an edge you can hone, how long it stays crisp, how it reacts to color bowls and humidity, and what happens when you (inevitably) bump a blade on the station. Use this guide to match steels with the way you cut, the clients you serve, and the maintenance cadence you can realistically support.

Quick answers for busy stylists

  • Need the slickest glide for dry detailing? Tier S powders and cobalt alloys (ATS-314, Nano Powder Metal, SG powder) hold a convex polish for months when tension is dialled in.
  • Fighting rust around chemical services? Stainless workhorses like VG-10, Micro Carbide, and 440C shrug off bleach and perms if you wipe and oil daily.
  • Building a training kit or backup set? Tier C/D steels (AUS-8, 9Cr18MoV, SUS420J2) sharpen fast, forgive slips, and keep budgets in check.

Steel family cheat sheet

  • Powder metallurgy elites: Nano Powder Metal, SG Powder High Metal, powder Damascus. Expect glassy glide, long edge life, and premium pricing.
  • Cobalt-rich stainless: ATS-314, Extramarise, Stellite. Low friction, strong chemical resistance, but they chip if abused.
  • Martensitic workhorses: 440C, VG-10, Micro Carbide, ZA-18. Balanced hardness, easy service, reliable for everyday barbers and stylists.
  • Value stainless blends: 9Cr18MoV, 7Cr17MoV, AUS-8, Taiwanese/Korean stainless. Great for apprentices, backups, or high-rotation chemical stations.
  • Legacy carbon & specialty: Traditional carbon steels, damascus cladding, cast stainless. Offer unique feel or price points but need focused care.

Steel hierarchy at a glance

Japanese manufacturers and industry sources organize scissor steels into a clear hierarchy based on material class and performance tier. This ranking, adapted from Hayashi Scissors and SisRma, provides useful context for comparing steels across brands:

Tier Material Class Japanese Term HRC Range Examples
S Pure Cobalt 純コバルト (jun kobaruto) ~47* Hayashi Pure Cobalt, Kikui Cobalt
A Powder Metallurgy 粉末鋼 (funmatsu-kō) 63-67 HYS, SG2, Nano Powder Metal
B Cobalt Base Alloy コバルト合金 (kobaruto gōkin) 55-60 Stellite, Acro Stellite
C Cobalt-Added Stainless コバルト添加 (kobaruto tenka) 58-62 CBA-1, Extramarise I/II
D Premium Stainless 高級ステンレス (kōkyū sutenresu) 58-62 VG-10, ATS-314
E Standard Stainless ステンレス鋼 (sutenresu-kō) 54-58 440C, SUS440C
F Budget Stainless 普及ステンレス (fukyū sutenresu) 50-54 SUS420J2, 3CR13

Tier S materials use a different wear mechanism than stainless steels. Despite a lower HRC number, pure cobalt alloys can outlast harder steels because they abrade gradually rather than micro-chipping. HRC alone does not tell the full performance story.

ScissorPedia Steel Tiers

Ranks highlight where an alloy sits on the performance curve. Every tier can be salon-ready—the badge simply signals the ceiling you can expect with great maintenance.

  • Tier S · Flagship Powder metallurgy and cobalt systems with the longest edge life.
  • Tier A · Pro Elite High-performance steels that balance longevity, glide, and serviceability.
  • Tier B · Pro Workhorse Trusted alloys for everyday stylists and barbers.
  • Tier C · Advanced Starter Upgraded entry steels that reward good habits.
  • Tier D · Training & Backup Budget stainless options—keep expectations realistic.

Tier S · Flagship Performance

ATS-314

Tier S Tier S Convex ready

Hitachi ATS-314· Premium Hitachi Steel

Flagship cobalt stainless used when convex edges must glide with minimal drag.

  • Hardness: 62–64 HRC after vacuum hardening.
  • Toughness: High wear resistance with tempered resilience; punishes overtight pivots.
  • Corrosion: Premium stainless response; wipe bleach and color immediately.
  • Weight/feel: Medium-light forged blank that balances through the shank.
Hardness: 62–64 HRC (vacuum tempered) Corrosion: High Edge life: 1,200–1,600 cuts before pro tune-up

Maintenance

Sharpen twice per year and keep tension neutral to avoid micro-chipping.

Chips rather than rolls if dropped; avoid DIY sharpening rigs.

Extramarise I Cobalt Alloy

Tier S Tier S Convex ready

Extramarise Processing Gen I

Silky-closing cobalt stainless that blends pure-cobalt glide with stainless durability for pro-facing convex shears.

  • Hardness: 60–62 HRC once the Extramarise thermal cycle is complete.
  • Toughness: Cobalt-heavy matrix delivers crisp bite yet rolls before it fractures.
  • Corrosion: Stainless backbone keeps rust at bay through colour and humidity.
  • Weight/feel: Featherlight close ideal for all-day precision work.
Hardness: 60–62 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 1,000–1,200 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe, dry, and oil daily; plan cobalt-capable service every 9–12 months.

Protect against overtight tension—cobalt edges bruise quickly if crushed.

Extramarise II Cobalt Alloy

Tier S Tier S Convex ready

Extramarise Processing Gen II

Reinforced cobalt stainless delivering silky glide plus extra rigidity for long-blade barbers and dry cutters.

  • Hardness: 60–62 HRC with the second-generation Extramarise treatment.
  • Toughness: Denser cobalt matrix holds alignment in longer blades without feeling brittle.
  • Corrosion: Stainless/cobalt mix resists moisture and colour exposure.
  • Weight/feel: Slightly firmer closing feel than Extramarise I—ideal for long strokes.
Hardness: 60–62 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 1,000–1,200 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe, oil, and tension daily; plan cobalt-trained service every 9–12 months.

Requires careful tension control; over-tight pivots can glaze the cobalt edge.

Nano Powder Metal (NPM)

Tier S Tier S Convex ready

NPM

Ultra-premium powder stainless that rewards disciplined upkeep with exceptional slide performance and long service intervals.

  • Hardness: 62–64 HRC after HIP + vacuum tempering.
  • Toughness: Powder matrix keeps carbides uniform, limiting micro-chipping on dry work.
  • Corrosion: Highly stainless; shrugs off colour bowls and humidity with prompt wipe-downs.
  • Weight/feel: Balanced closing feel that stays smooth during long detail sessions.
Hardness: 62–64 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 1,200+ cuts before pro tune-up

Maintenance

Clean and oil after every guest; schedule certified powder-steel service annually.

Needs authorised service and careful tension—overtight pivots can bruise the ultra-hard edge.

Powder Damascus Alloy

Tier S Tier S Showcase build

Damascus Core (VG-10 / Powder)

Showcase powder laminate that combines flagship glide with boutique Damascus styling.

  • Hardness: 60–62 HRC at the powder core with stainless cladding protection.
  • Toughness: Laminated build brings flex while the core keeps razor bite.
  • Corrosion: Stainless outer layers protect the etched finish from humidity.
  • Weight/feel: Balanced, slightly damped close that highlights slide control.
Hardness: 60–62 HRC (core) Corrosion: High Edge life: 1,000+ cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe, dry, and oil after each client; request Damascus-friendly polishing during service.

Pattern can fade under heavy buffing—choose Damascus-aware sharpeners.

SG Powder High Metal

Tier S Tier S Convex ready

Powder High-Speed Metal SG

Top-tier powder stainless delivering elite edge life with stainless insurance for pro educators and precision stylists.

  • Hardness: 62–65 HRC once sub-zero processing purges retained austenite.
  • Toughness: Powder high-speed steel withstands demanding dry work without chipping.
  • Corrosion: Stainless base resists humidity and chemical splash.
  • Weight/feel: Firm, controlled closing feel ideal for precision cuts.
Hardness: 62–65 HRC (with sub-zero treatment) Corrosion: High Edge life: 1,300–1,500 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe, oil, and tension daily; send to powder-trained sharpeners annually.

Needs careful tension; overtight pivots can bruise the ultra-hard edge.

Stellite Alloy (Pure Cobalt)

Tier S Tier S Chemical shield

Pure Cobalt Alloy· Stellite

Pure cobalt alloy delivering legendary glide, chemical immunity, and tactile feedback for barbers who cut by feel.

  • Hardness: 50–55 HRC but cobalt carbides deliver excellent wear resistance.
  • Toughness: Rolls rather than chips, rewarding careful handling.
  • Corrosion: Practically rust-proof—ideal for chemical-heavy salons.
  • Weight/feel: Silky, low-friction close prized by veteran barbers.
Hardness: 50–55 HRC (low elastic modulus) Corrosion: High Edge life: 900–1,100 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe, dry, and oil after every guest; book cobalt specialists twice a year.

Softer HRC means aggressive slide work can roll the edge quickly; plan disciplined service cadence.

VG-10 (V Gold 10)

Tier S Tier S Daily driver

V Gold 10· VG10· V金10号

Takefu’s signature stainless that bridges premium edge life with approachable serviceability.

  • Hardness: 59–63 HRC from Takefu’s published heat treatment window.
  • Toughness: Vanadium-carbide matrix balances wear resistance with forgiving toughness.
  • Corrosion: High chromium plus cobalt bump keeps rust at bay when you clean daily.
  • Weight/feel: Laminated builds feel light in hand with a stable spine.
Hardness: 59–63 HRC (Takefu datasheet) Corrosion: High Edge life: 1,200–1,800 cuts between pro sharpenings

Maintenance

Sharpen every 3–4 months in high-volume salons; wipe after chemical work.

Needs disciplined wipe-downs; vanadium carbides can discolor if chemicals sit overnight. Takefu warns of counterfeit VG-10 claims online.

ZA-18 Stainless Steel

Tier S Tier S Stainless guard

Aichi ZA-18· ZA18 Stainless

Cobalt-boosted stainless that pairs elite edge retention with dependable chemical resistance—ideal for high-volume salons.

  • Hardness: 61–63 HRC tempered for pro shears.
  • Toughness: Molybdenum and cobalt additions keep the edge resilient under pressure.
  • Corrosion: 17–18% chromium protects against bleach and humidity.
  • Weight/feel: Polished convex blanks glide smoothly with light closing force.
Hardness: 61–63 HRC (salon builds) Corrosion: High Edge life: 1,200–1,500 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Clean and oil after each client; cobalt-rich stainless still needs disciplined care.

High hardness makes drops risky—use holsters and mindful closures.

Tier A · Pro Elite

ATS-34 Stainless Steel

Tier A Tier A Convex ready

154CM equivalent

Legacy Japanese stainless delivering convex-ready edges and long life without jumping to cobalt alloys.

  • Hardness: 58–61 HRC via molybdenum-rich heat treatment.
  • Toughness: Fine carbides balance wear resistance with reliable toughness.
  • Corrosion: Stainless but needs timely wipe-downs after chemicals.
  • Weight/feel: Medium heft that feels planted during precision work.
Hardness: 58–61 HRC Corrosion: Medium-high Edge life: 900–1,200 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Keep tension neutral and schedule pro sharpening every 6 months for heavy use.

Slightly less corrosion resistant than VG-10—never leave bleach residue overnight.

CMC Alloy Stainless Steel

Tier A Tier A Convex ready

Cobalt Molybdenum Carbon alloy· Extramarise steel

Marketing shorthand for cobalt–molybdenum stainless alloys tuned for premium Japanese shears.

  • Hardness: 58–60 HRC via proprietary Extramarise treatment.
  • Toughness: Cobalt/molybdenum mix keeps edges crisp yet resilient.
  • Corrosion: Stainless with cobalt additives; wipe chemicals promptly.
  • Weight/feel: Medium heft with silky closure.
Hardness: 58–60 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 900–1,100 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Keep tension neutral and service with cobalt-capable sharpeners every 6 months.

Label is non-standard—only trust reputable makers with documented heat treatment.

Carbon Tool Steel

Tier A Tier A High upkeep

Blue/White Paper Steel· SK Series Carbon Steel

Legacy non-stainless steels prized for unmatched sharpness and tactile feedback, reserved for stylists who commit to meticulous maintenance.

  • Hardness: 58–65 HRC delivers razor edges.
  • Toughness: High carbon bite with minimal alloying—chips if abused.
  • Corrosion: No chromium; rust develops rapidly without care.
  • Weight/feel: Dense forged feel for silky closures.
Hardness: 58–65 HRC Corrosion: Low Edge life: 1,000–1,300 cuts before sharpening (with strict care)

Maintenance

Dry and oil after every client; avoid immersion disinfectants.

Susceptible to rust, staining, and chipping; never leave damp or in disinfectant jars.

Cobalt Alloy Stainless Steel

Tier A Tier A Convex ready

Cobalt stainless· Extramarise cobalt alloy

Premium stainless family enriched with cobalt to deliver long edge life and glassy glide.

  • Hardness: 59–62 HRC via cobalt/moly heat treatments.
  • Toughness: Cobalt stiffens the matrix for long-lived convex edges.
  • Corrosion: Highly stainless, even under salon chemicals.
  • Weight/feel: Balanced feel with silky closing action.
Hardness: 59–62 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 900–1,200 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Keep tension neutral and sharpen with cobalt-capable technicians.

Marketing varies—verify maker and heat treatment before buying.

Damascus (Pattern-Welded) Steel

Tier A Tier A Showpiece steel

Pattern-welded stainless· Layered powder Damascus

Showpiece shears combining premium core steels with etched stainless layers for aesthetics and smooth glide.

  • Hardness: Controlled by the core steel, often VG-10 or powder alloys.
  • Toughness: Layered cheeks add flex and protect the core.
  • Corrosion: Stainless cladding helps resist staining.
  • Weight/feel: Slightly heavier with a dampened, silky feel.
Hardness: 59–63 HRC (core dependent) Corrosion: High Edge life: Matches core alloy (VG-10 ≈ 1,000 cuts; powder cores longer)

Maintenance

Clean and oil after every client; use Damascus-savvy sharpeners to preserve patterns.

Pattern maintenance requires careful polishing; price reflects craftsmanship.

High Cobalt Alloy (HC)

Tier A Tier A Stainless guard

HC Cobalt Alloy

Versatile cobalt stainless delivering silky glide, stainless protection, and approachable maintenance for pro stylists.

  • Hardness: Around 60–61 HRC when tempered to Okawa’s spec.
  • Toughness: Cobalt + molybdenum matrix keeps edges resilient for daily work.
  • Corrosion: Elevated cobalt content boosts stain resistance in humid salons.
  • Weight/feel: Neutral, lightly damped close ideal for all-day use.
Hardness: 60–61 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 850–1,000 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Clean and oil daily; schedule cobalt-friendly service every 9–10 months.

Verify OEM hardness claims—some rebrands temper softer than the Okawa spec.

Micro Carbide Steel (Powder Ice-Hardened)

Tier A Tier A Solingen forged

FRIODUR® Micro Carbide

Flagship Solingen powder stainless delivering long wear and corrosion resistance with the familiar feel of German-forged shears.

  • Hardness: 60–62 HRC after powder forging and ice tempering.
  • Toughness: Powder matrix plus sub-zero quench keeps edges resilient for bevel or convex profiles.
  • Corrosion: Deep-chilled stainless resists moisture and sanitation chemicals.
  • Weight/feel: Forged Solingen heft steadies long blades.
Hardness: 60–62 HRC (FRIODUR® ice-hardened) Corrosion: High Edge life: 1,100–1,300 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Clean and oil after chemical work; plan bevel-friendly service every 9–12 months.

Slightly heavier than Japanese powders—match with clients who like grounded feel.

V1 Carbon Steel

Tier A Tier A High upkeep

V Gold 1 (carbon)· Hitachi/Takefu V1

Ultra-refined carbon tool steel that rewards disciplined care with elite sharpness and tactile feedback.

  • Hardness: 61–64 HRC after proper tempering delivers razor sharpness.
  • Toughness: Low impurity billet keeps the grain tight for resilient tips.
  • Corrosion: Minimal chromium—treat like carbon steel and dry constantly.
  • Weight/feel: Lightweight forged blank with tactile bite in the close.
Hardness: 61–64 HRC (Takefu spec) Corrosion: Low Edge life: 1,000–1,300 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe and oil immediately after service; carbon core rusts fast if neglected.

Rusts quickly and chips if twisted—store in padded holsters and avoid excessive force.

VG-1 (V Gold 1)

Tier A Tier A Daily driver

Aichi V Gold 1· VG1

Tough, stainless Japanese workhorse that bridges premium glide with approachable maintenance.

  • Hardness: High-50s HRC keeps the edge keen without turning brittle.
  • Toughness: Lean alloying leaves it tougher than VG-10—great for mixed techniques.
  • Corrosion: Stainless matrix shrugs off moisture with routine wipe-downs.
  • Weight/feel: Lightweight offset builds stay balanced for scissor-over-comb work.
Hardness: 58–60 HRC (typical salon tempering) Corrosion: High Edge life: 900–1,100 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Clean after each client, oil pivots, and plan convex polishing every 3–4 months in busy chairs.

Edge life trails VG-10; maintain regular service cadence to avoid drift.

VG-2 (V Gold 2)

Tier A Tier A Stainless guard

V Gold 2· VG2

Stainless Japanese workhorse that rewards disciplined upkeep with longer intervals between sharpening than 5Cr/440A sets.

  • Hardness: 59–61 HRC when tempered to Takefu’s recommended window.
  • Toughness: Low-impurity melt and added molybdenum keep the edge resilient under salon workloads.
  • Corrosion: Balanced chromium content resists humidity and chemical splash.
  • Weight/feel: Forged blanks stay light and controllable for all-day use.
Hardness: 59–61 HRC (Takefu spec) Corrosion: High Edge life: 800–1,000 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe and dry after each client; schedule convex polishing every 6–8 weeks in high-volume salons.

Edge life trails VG-10 and cobalt powders—maintain 6–8 week service intervals to preserve glide.

Tier B · Pro Workhorse

440C Stainless Steel

Tier B Tier B Everyday workhorse

SUS440C· AISI 440C

The dependable stainless baseline for pro shears—longer life than 420 grades without cobalt pricing.

  • Hardness: 58–60 HRC once tempered.
  • Toughness: Chromium carbides boost wear resistance while staying serviceable.
  • Corrosion: High chromium stainless—rust resistant with disciplined wipe-downs.
  • Weight/feel: Mid-weight forged blank that feels grounded in longer blades.
Hardness: 58–60 HRC (properly tempered) Corrosion: Medium-high Edge life: 700–1,000 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Clean after chemical work and plan quarterly pro service in busy salons.

Performance varies by mill; under-hardened 440C can feel mushy and dull fast.

9Cr18MoV Stainless Steel

Tier B Tier B 440C-class

90Cr18MoV· Chinese 440C equivalent

High-chromium stainless that mirrors 440C performance, giving stylists long edge life at a lower price point.

  • Hardness: 58–61 HRC when properly heat treated, similar to 440C.
  • Toughness: Higher carbon and molybdenum deliver strong wear resistance.
  • Corrosion: 18% chromium shrugs off salon moisture and chemicals.
  • Weight/feel: Forged heft provides stability for long blades.
Hardness: 58–61 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 800–1,100 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Dry thoroughly and schedule sharpening every 4–6 months to preserve the hard edge.

Hardness makes it less forgiving—avoid twisting or cutting non-hair materials.

AUS-8 Stainless Steel

Tier B Tier B Stainless guard

AUS-8A· V Gold 8 (legacy branding)

Balanced Japanese stainless loved for its easy maintenance and reliable glide in professional salons.

  • Hardness: 57–59 HRC delivers dependable edge life.
  • Toughness: Vanadium and molybdenum balance hardness with resilience.
  • Corrosion: Stainless enough for routine sanitation cycles.
  • Weight/feel: Mid-weight forged blanks with smooth action.
Hardness: 57–59 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 700–950 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Clean and oil daily; plan sharpening every 4 months for heavy salon use.

Edge life trails VG-10 and ATS-314; stay on top of tension and service.

MV Stainless (Molybdenum-Vanadium)

Tier B Tier B Stainless guard

Catch-all term for Japanese molybdenum–vanadium stainless that delivers smooth glide and reasonable longevity without cobalt pricing.

  • Hardness: 56–58 HRC comparable to AUS-8/440B.
  • Toughness: Molybdenum boosts wear resistance; vanadium keeps the edge fine.
  • Corrosion: Stainless enough for routine sanitation.
  • Weight/feel: Balanced mid-weight forged feel.
Hardness: 56–58 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 600–850 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe after chemicals, oil weekly, and sharpen every 3–4 months in high-volume salons.

“MV” labeling varies—verify brand specs and heat treatment.

SUS440C Stainless Steel

Tier B Tier B Stainless guard

JIS SUS440C· Japanese 440C

Japanese-tuned 440C delivering reliable edge life with forgiving maintenance habits.

  • Hardness: 58–60 HRC when vacuum tempered by Japanese forges.
  • Toughness: Carbide-dense edge rolls before it chips—ideal for daily salon abuse.
  • Corrosion: High chromium stainless; resists humidity and colour if you clean promptly.
  • Weight/feel: Medium-weight blank that feels grounded without being sluggish.
Hardness: 58–60 HRC (vacuum tempered) Corrosion: High Edge life: 800–1,100 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe after each client and book sharpening every quarter in busy salons.

Quality varies outside Japan—verify provenance before investing.

Solingen Stainless Steel

Tier B Tier B Stainless guard

German-forged stainless with consistent heat treatment, prized for reliability and easy servicing.

  • Hardness: 4034/4037 steels hardened to 56–58 HRC.
  • Toughness: Robust bevel edges for daily salon/barber use.
  • Corrosion: Ice-hardened stainless resists moisture and chemicals.
  • Weight/feel: Forged handles deliver stable, grounded feel.
Hardness: 56–58 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 650–900 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Clean and oil daily; plan triannual sharpening for busy chairs.

Performance still depends on the specific Solingen maker and heat treat.

Taiwan Stainless Steel

Tier B Tier B Stainless guard

Taiwan stainless

Stainless workhorse option for stylists who need reliable corrosion resistance and serviceable edges without the premium of cobalt powders.

  • Hardness: 55–58 HRC when 440C/9Cr billets are tempered for salon work.
  • Toughness: Chromium-rich matrix rolls before it chips, so repairs stay straightforward.
  • Corrosion: High chromium stainless shrugs off humidity and sanitation cycles with consistent wipe-downs.
  • Weight/feel: Neutral forged balance keeps long shifts comfortable.
Hardness: 55–58 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 600–850 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe after chemical work, oil pivots weekly, and plan sharpening every 6–8 weeks in busy salons.

Specs vary by OEM—verify disclosed HRC and finishing to avoid rebranded 420-grade imports.

Tier C · Advanced Starter

4034 Stainless Steel (X46Cr13)

Tier C Tier C Solingen forged

DIN 1.4034· X46Cr13

Classic Solingen stainless that balances edge life, corrosion resistance, and serviceability for everyday barbers.

  • Hardness: 54–56 HRC under Solingen tempering routines.
  • Toughness: Forgiving martensite that rolls instead of chipping when dropped.
  • Corrosion: High chromium content handles daily sanitation cycles.
  • Weight/feel: Forged density delivers stable, balanced strokes.
Hardness: 54–56 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 600–900 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Quarterly professional service keeps the Solingen edge crisp; wipe after disinfectants.

Lacks the ultra-slick glide of cobalt steels; dry slide work may feel grabby.

4037 Stainless Steel (X65Cr13)

Tier C Tier C Solingen forged

DIN 1.4037· X65Cr13

Hardenable Solingen stainless delivering dependable edge life for everyday barber and salon shears.

  • Hardness: 55–57 HRC with ice hardening.
  • Toughness: Higher carbon than 4034 gives longer life while staying forgiving.
  • Corrosion: Built for Solingen sanitation cycles and humid salons.
  • Weight/feel: Forged heft steadies long blades for barber work.
Hardness: 55–57 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 700–1,000 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe, dry, and oil daily; schedule sharpening every 3–4 months for busy chairs.

Not as slick for dry slide work as cobalt or powder steels; keep tension tuned to prevent drag.

5Cr15MoV Stainless Steel

Tier C Tier C Stainless guard

X50Cr15MoV· DIN 1.4116 (approximate)

Popular stainless for value shears—easy to sharpen, highly stainless, and forgiving under apprentice handling.

  • Hardness: 56–58 HRC provides a noticeable jump over 3Cr/4Cr alloys.
  • Toughness: Softer than 440C; rolls before it chips.
  • Corrosion: 15% chromium keeps rust at bay in bleach-heavy stations.
  • Weight/feel: Lightweight stampings; pairs with molded handles for comfort.
Hardness: 56–58 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 500–700 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe after chemicals and schedule sharpening every 6–8 weeks in high-volume salons.

Dry slide work sees drag once the edge rounds; not a substitute for premium convex steels.

6Cr13 Stainless Steel

Tier C Tier C Stainless guard

X6Cr13· DIN 1.4000

Mid-tier Chinese stainless that delivers better retention than 3Cr/4Cr while keeping costs low.

  • Hardness: 52–55 HRC offers more stability than 4Cr13.
  • Toughness: Rolls instead of chipping, making it student-friendly.
  • Corrosion: Stainless enough for bleach and perm stations.
  • Weight/feel: Lightweight stampings, often paired with ergonomic handles.
Hardness: 52–55 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 550–750 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe and oil daily; book sharpening every 2–3 months with heavy use.

Glide degrades quickly once the edge rolls—monitor tension and schedule regular honing.

8Cr13MoV Stainless Steel

Tier C Tier C Stainless guard

GB 8Cr13MoV· X50CrMoV15 equivalent (approx)

The value benchmark—mimics AUS-8 performance for budget stylist and barber shears.

  • Hardness: 56–59 HRC when heat treated well.
  • Toughness: Balanced—edge rolls slightly before chipping.
  • Corrosion: 13% chromium plus molybdenum resists salon chemicals.
  • Weight/feel: Nimble forged/stamped builds feel light but confident.
Hardness: 56–59 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 650–900 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe after sanitation and plan sharpening every 3–4 months in busy salons.

Needs consistent cleaning; bleach left overnight can spot the edge.

Korean Stainless Steel

Tier C Tier C Stainless guard

Korean-made stainless that sits between Chinese entry steels and Japanese AUS-series—solid value with sensible upkeep.

  • Hardness: Typically 420J2/440A equivalents around 56 HRC.
  • Toughness: Forgiving matrix that rolls before chipping.
  • Corrosion: High chromium; resists salon moisture.
  • Weight/feel: Neutral weight with comfortable handles.
Hardness: 54–58 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 500–750 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe dry and tension weekly; expect seasonal sharpening.

Quality varies by OEM and heat treat; verify specs before purchase.

Tier D · Training & Backup

3Cr13 Stainless Steel

Tier D Tier D Training-ready

X30Cr13· 420J2 Modified

Entry-level stainless chosen for training and backup shears where corrosion resistance and low cost trump edge life.

  • Hardness: 52–55 HRC in standard tempering cycles.
  • Toughness: Soft matrix rolls rather than chips; ideal for training environments.
  • Corrosion: Stainless enough for chemical stations and classroom kits.
  • Weight/feel: Lightweight stampings with bulk added in handles for balance.
Hardness: 52–55 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 300–500 cuts before touch-up

Maintenance

Expect monthly sharpening under salon workloads; keep tension slightly firm to reduce roll.

Rolls quickly on coarse hair; expect frequent honing and avoid heavy slide work.

4Cr13 Stainless Steel

Tier D Tier D Training-ready

40Cr13· DIN X40Cr13

Low-cost stainless a step above 3Cr13, common in entry salon and barber kits.

  • Hardness: 50–52 HRC, slightly harder than 3Cr13.
  • Toughness: Rolls rather than chips, forgiving for students.
  • Corrosion: High chromium resists stains in chemical stations.
  • Weight/feel: Lightweight stampings; handles add balance.
Hardness: 50–52 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 400–600 cuts before touch-up

Maintenance

Clean, dry, and oil daily; monthly pro service keeps edges aligned.

Slide work feels grabby as soon as the edge rolls; expect frequent honing.

7Cr17MoV Stainless Steel

Tier D Tier D Training-ready

7Cr Stainless

Budget-friendly stainless that gives apprentices a workable edge and chemical-safe backup tools without premium pricing.

  • Hardness: 57–60 HRC, a step up from 5Cr alloys when heat treated well.
  • Toughness: Added molybdenum/vanadium improve roll resistance without making it brittle.
  • Corrosion: 17% chromium stainless protects against humidity and chemical splash.
  • Weight/feel: Lightweight stamped builds feel nimble but less grounded than forged shears.
Hardness: 57–60 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 400–600 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Wipe, dry, and oil after each guest; plan sharpening every 6–8 weeks with daily use.

Heat treatment varies widely—verify hardness claims before purchasing.

Cast Stainless Steel

Tier D Tier D High upkeep

Mold-poured stainless used to hit low price points—fine for backups, not daily pro tools.

  • Hardness: 48–54 HRC with large grain structure.
  • Toughness: Brittle joints and porous blades decrease durability.
  • Corrosion: Stainless surface resists rust but hides trapped moisture.
  • Weight/feel: Often lightweight with hollow handles.
Hardness: 48–54 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 300–450 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Inspect for cracks and sharpen frequently; replace at first sign of failure.

Chips easily when dropped; tension threads strip quickly.

SUS410 Stainless Steel

Tier D Tier D High upkeep

Entry-level stainless used in training and utility shears—great for rust resistance, poor for edge life.

  • Hardness: Soft stainless prioritising corrosion resistance.
  • Toughness: Rolls instead of chips—great for safety shears.
  • Corrosion: Excellent; resists rust even with heavy sanitation.
  • Weight/feel: Lightweight stamped construction.
Hardness: 50–52 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 250–400 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Clean and oil daily; expect frequent sharpening or replacement.

Edge dulls quickly on coarse hair; consider micro-serrations.

SUS420J2 Stainless Steel

Tier D Tier D High upkeep

Low-cost stainless used in mass-market and training shears where rust prevention matters more than edge life.

  • Hardness: 52–54 HRC—slightly harder than SUS410 but still soft.
  • Toughness: Rolls easily, forgiving for students.
  • Corrosion: Excellent; designed for chemical-heavy environments.
  • Weight/feel: Lightweight stamped builds.
Hardness: 52–54 HRC Corrosion: High Edge life: 300–500 cuts before sharpening

Maintenance

Clean and oil daily; monthly sharpening recommended under heavy use.

Edge dulls quickly on dense hair; plan frequent service or replacement.

Troubleshooting & maintenance checklist

  • Edge feels draggy mid-day: Check tension and clean the pivot before blaming the steel. Excess spray residue can mimic dullness.
  • Micro-chips along the edge: Your hardness is high for the technique. Drop tension slightly, avoid dry twisting, and log service history for your sharpener.
  • Rust freckles near the heel: Moisture sat overnight. Switch to pH-neutral cleaning cloths, dry thoroughly, and oil the pivot.
  • Blade feels heavy or unbalanced: Weight distribution comes from the forging, not just hardness. Pair the steel with the right length and handle ergonomics for your workflow.

Frequently asked questions

Is higher HRC always better?
Not automatically. Hardness between 62–64 HRC keeps a razor edge longer but chips faster on impact. Busy barbers often prefer 58–60 HRC martensitic stainless that rolls rather than fractures.

Can I trust a steel label on the blade?
Use it as a starting point. Ask for documentation from the manufacturer or distributor, and cross-check the alloy against the brand’s official catalog. Reputable makers (Takefu, Proterial/Hitachi, Mizutani, Böhler) publish their steel mixes.

How do I schedule sharpening around different steels?
Powder and cobalt alloys typically need 1–2 services per year with careful handling. Tier A/B martensitic stainless averages 3–4 sharpenings per year in high-volume shops. Entry steels may need quarterly touch-ups—build that cost into your pricing.

Keep exploring

5 Steels You'll See Everywhere

These cover 80% of professional scissors on the market. Start here.

Browse All Types

10Cr15CoMoV Steel

10Cr15CoMoV is a premium Chinese cobalt stainless steel with HRC 58-60, offering improved edge retention over 440C for professional scissors.

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Sandvik 12C27 Steel

Sandvik 12C27 is a classic Swedish stainless steel with ultra-clean microstructure and consistent edge performance for professional scissors.

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Sandvik 12C27M Steel

Sandvik 12C27M is explicitly recommended by Sandvik for high-end scissors, with 14.5% chromium for superior corrosion resistance.

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Sandvik 13C26 Steel

Sandvik 13C26 is a Swedish razor steel reaching HRC 61, designed for ultra-sharp slide cutting and precision scissor applications.

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14C28N Steel

14C28N is Sandvik's nitrogen-enhanced blade steel offering improved toughness and corrosion resistance as a modern 440C alternative.

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2Cr13 Steel

2Cr13 is the cheapest scissor steel at HRC 48-52. Important for consumer education about bottom-tier scissors that cannot hold a professional edge.

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3CR13 Steel

3Cr13 is a budget Chinese stainless used in student kits and starter scissors with HRC 50-54 and very short edge life.

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4034 Stainless

4034 stainless is the classic Solingen workhorse for German barber scissors, offering reliable bevel edges with solid corrosion resistance.

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4037 Stainless

4037 stainless is a higher-carbon German steel delivering longer edge life than 4034 for professional barber and salon scissors.

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440C Stainless Steel

440C is a proven stainless workhorse at HRC 58-60, balancing sharp edge retention and easy maintenance for professional shears worldwide.

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4CR13 Steel

4Cr13 is an entry-level Chinese stainless for value scissors and student shears, offering basic edge stability with corrosion resistance.

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5CR15MOV Steel

5Cr15MoV is a budget Chinese stainless with 15% chromium, suitable for salon backup scissors and student kits needing rust resistance.

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6CR13 Steel

6Cr13 is a budget Chinese stainless offering slightly better edge retention than 4Cr13, used in student and value salon scissors.

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7Cr17MoV Stainless Steel

7Cr17MoV is a mid-tier Chinese stainless with 17% chromium and molybdenum-vanadium additions for improved hardness in apprentice scissors.

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8CR13MOV Steel

8Cr13MoV is a value-performance Chinese stainless comparable to AUS-8, offering solid edge retention for entry-level professional scissors.

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9Cr13CoMoV Steel

9Cr13CoMoV is a purpose-built Chinese scissor steel with cobalt additions for refined carbides and professional-grade edge stability.

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9CR18MOV Steel

9Cr18MoV is China's answer to 440C with 18% chromium and HRC 58-62 hardness for professional barber and salon scissors.

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AEB-L Steel

AEB-L is a Bohler razor steel from 1928 with ultra-fine carbides, delivering exceptionally smooth edges for precision scissor cutting.

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Aogami — Blue Paper Steel

Aogami (Blue Paper Steel) is Hitachi's tungsten-alloyed carbon steel reaching HRC 67, used in artisan Japanese razors and heritage cutting tools.

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ATS-314 Steel

ATS-314 is Hitachi's cobalt-enriched stainless at HRC 60-62, delivering glassy convex edges for slide cutting in premium Japanese scissors.

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ATS-34 Steel

ATS-34 is a premium Hitachi stainless with 4% molybdenum at HRC 60-61, offering fine-grained edges for precision and slide cutting scissors.

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ATS-55 Steel

ATS-55 is Hitachi's mid-range stainless bridging the gap between 440C and ATS-34 with better grain refinement at an accessible price.

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AUS-8 Steel

AUS-8 is a reliable Japanese stainless by Aichi with vanadium-refined grain, offering balanced performance for working stylists at mid-range price.

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Carbon Steel

Carbon steel delivers the sharpest possible scissor edges but requires constant moisture protection due to zero rust resistance.

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Cast Stainless

Cast stainless scissors are poured into molds for low cost but have larger grain structure and shorter edge life than forged alternatives.

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CBA-1 (Cobalt Base Alloy 1)

CBA-1 is Joewell's proprietary cobalt-base alloy with near-zero nickel content, enabling ultra-thin blade designs for stylists with nickel sensitiv...

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CMC Steel

CMC is Mizutani's patented micropowder metal alloy with elevated molybdenum, used in their Damascus series for exceptional blade durability.

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Cobalt Alloy

Cobalt alloy scissors use cobalt-enriched stainless for refined carbides and gradual edge wear, the hallmark of premium Japanese shears.

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Steel Composition Chemistry Guide

A guide to scissor steel chemistry covering carbon, chromium, cobalt, and alloying elements with Japanese terminology for each.

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Damascus

Damascus scissors feature pattern-welded stainless layers over a high-performance core, combining striking visual appeal with premium cutting edges.

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Extramarise I Cobalt Alloy

Extramarise I is Mizutani's molybdenum-rich cobalt alloy with sub-zero heat treatment, designed for lightweight convex scissors with lasting edges.

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Extramarise II Cobalt Alloy

Extramarise II is Mizutani's vanadium-rich cobalt alloy with sub-zero processing, engineered for longer blades used in scissor-over-comb and dry te...

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GIN1 — Silver Steel

GIN1 (Silver Steel #1) is Hitachi's entry specialty stainless from Yasuki Works, offering clean edges and easy sharpening for salon scissors.

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GIN3 — Silver Steel

GIN3 (Silver Steel #3) is Hitachi's high-carbon stainless reaching 61 HRC. A VG-10 alternative favoured by professional scissor makers.

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HAP40 Steel

HAP40 is Hitachi's powder metallurgy high-speed steel hitting 64-66 HRC. The hardest practical PM option for premium hair scissors.

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Steel Hardness Reference

HRC and Vickers hardness scales explained for hair scissor steels. Understand what hardness numbers mean for edge retention and performance.

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High Cobalt Alloy (HC)

High Cobalt Alloy (HC) bridges stainless and pure cobalt steels. Smooth cutting feel and strong corrosion resistance for professional stylists.

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HYS-MAX67 (Hayashi Ultimate PM)

HYS-MAX67 reaches an industry-first 67 HRC via two-piece welded construction. Hayashi's ultimate powder metal scissor steel for maximum edge retent...

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HYS (Hayashi Powder Metal)

HYS is Hayashi's proprietary powder metal steel at 63-64 HRC. Ultra-fine carbides deliver exceptional edge life for professional shears.

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Korean Stainless

Korean stainless steel offers mid-grade performance at 54-58 HRC for value-priced salon shears. A solid budget choice for working stylists.

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M390 Steel

Bohler M390 Microclean is a third-gen powder metallurgy steel with 20% chromium. The ultimate edge retention for ultra-premium hair scissors.

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Micro Carbide Steel (FRIODUR®)

Micro Carbide Steel (FRIODUR) is Jaguar's ice-hardened powder steel from Solingen at 60-62 HRC. German precision for professional salon shears.

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MV Stainless

MV Stainless is a molybdenum-vanadium Japanese alloy at 56-58 HRC. Affordable, smooth-cutting steel for budget-conscious professional stylists.

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N690 Steel

Bohler N690 is a cobalt-bearing Austrian stainless with 17% chromium at 58-60 HRC. Top corrosion resistance for European professional shears.

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Nano Powder Metal (NPM)

Nano Powder Metal (NPM) is Mizutani's flagship PM steel at 62-65 HRC. Zero-drag glide and ultra-fine carbides for elite professional scissors.

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Powder Damascus Alloy

Powder Damascus combines a PM steel core with layered stainless cladding at 60-62 HRC. Flagship edge life meets showpiece aesthetics for stylists.

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Pure Cobalt (Hayashi)

Pure Cobalt is Hayashi's rust-proof, non-magnetic scissor material. A completely different approach to blade steel for professional hair shears.

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SG Powder High Metal

SG Powder High Metal is Okawa's flagship powder high-speed steel at 62-65 HRC. Sub-zero treated for superior edge life in professional scissors.

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SG2 / R2 — Super Gold 2

SG2 (Super Gold 2 / R2) is Takefu's flagship PM stainless at 63-64 HRC. Ultra-fine carbides for top-tier professional hair scissor performance.

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Shirogami — White Paper Steel

Shirogami (White Paper Steel) is Hitachi's pure carbon steel reaching 65 HRC. The sharpest possible edge for traditional Japanese razors and shears.

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Sintered Metal (Kasho/KAI)

Sintered Metal is KAI's proprietary powder-compacted steel for Kasho scissors. Ultra-uniform grain structure for consistent, sharp professional edges.

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SKD-11 Steel

SKD-11 (AISI D2) is a high-carbon tool steel at 60-64 HRC for maximum edge retention. Semi-stainless choice for dry-cutting specialist stylists.

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Solingen Steel

Solingen steel refers to German-forged stainless from the famed blade city, typically 56-58 HRC. Reliable, corrosion-resistant scissors for salon p...

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SOLINOX54 Steel

SOLINOX54 is Jaguar Solingen's proprietary high-chromium stainless alloy at 54 HRC — engineered for impact durability and corrosion resistance rath...

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Stellite Alloy (Pure Cobalt)

Stellite is a cobalt-based alloy offering rust-proof, silky-smooth cutting at 50-55 HRC. Prized by barbers and stylists for its buttery closure feel.

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SUS410 Steel

SUS410 is a soft, budget stainless steel at 50-52 HRC. Best suited for student training shears and salon utility scissors, not professional cutting.

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SUS420J2 Steel

SUS420J2 is an entry-level Japanese stainless at 52-54 HRC. Affordable, rust-resistant steel for training scissors and salon utility shears.

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SUS440C Steel

SUS440C is Japan's benchmark stainless scissor steel at 58-60 HRC. Reliable edge retention and corrosion resistance for everyday professional use.

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Taiwan Steel

Taiwan-forged stainless steel sits between Chinese budget and Japanese premium grades at 55-58 HRC. Good value for working salon stylists.

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V1 Steel

V1 is Takefu's flagship non-stainless carbon steel at 61-64 HRC. Razor-keen edges with low impurities for detail-focused professional stylists.

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VG-1 Steel

VG-1 (V Gold 1) is a forgiving Japanese stainless at 58-60 HRC. The working-pro sibling to VG-10 for everyday salon hair scissors.

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VG-10 Steel

VG-10 (V Gold 10) is Japan's most popular premium scissor steel at 59-63 HRC. Cobalt-enhanced stainless for professional dry and wet cutting.

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VG-2 Steel

VG-2 is Takefu's mid-range stainless at 59-61 HRC. Easy to sharpen with solid edge life, bridging 440C and VG-10 for professional stylists.

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VG-5 Steel

VG-5 (V Gold 5) is Takefu's mid-tier stainless at 56-58 HRC. Tough, easy to maintain, and built for high-volume salon scissor workloads.

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VG-XEOS Steel

VG-XEOS is Takefu's special-melting steel beyond VG-10, reaching 61-62 HRC. Near-PM grain quality for premium professional hair scissors.

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ZA-18 Steel

ZA-18 is Aichi Steel's cobalt-enhanced stainless at 61-63 HRC with 18% chromium. The next step above VG-10 for professional hair scissors.

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ZDP-189 Steel

ZDP-189 is Proterial's ultra-high-carbon powder metallurgy stainless steel. At HRC 65+, it offers extreme edge retention but is NOT listed by Prote...

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Zirconia Ceramic

Zirconia ceramic blades are harder than any steel, completely rust-proof, and ultra-lightweight. A niche non-metallic option for hair scissors.

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