Steel Types
Your shears are only as dependable as the alloy they are forged from. Steel dictates how sharp an edge you can hone, how long it stays crisp, how it reacts to color bowls and humidity, and what happens when you (inevitably) bump a blade on the station. Use this guide to match steels with the way you cut, the clients you serve, and the maintenance cadence you can realistically support.
Quick answers for busy stylists
- Need the slickest glide for dry detailing? Tier S powders and cobalt alloys (ATS-314, Nano Powder Metal, SG powder) hold a convex polish for months when tension is dialled in.
- Fighting rust around chemical services? Stainless workhorses like VG-10, Micro Carbide, and 440C shrug off bleach and perms if you wipe and oil daily.
- Building a training kit or backup set? Tier C/D steels (AUS-8, 9Cr18MoV, SUS420J2) sharpen fast, forgive slips, and keep budgets in check.
Steel family cheat sheet
- Powder metallurgy elites: Nano Powder Metal, SG Powder High Metal, powder Damascus. Expect glassy glide, long edge life, and premium pricing.
- Cobalt-rich stainless: ATS-314, Extramarise, Stellite. Low friction, strong chemical resistance, but they chip if abused.
- Martensitic workhorses: 440C, VG-10, Micro Carbide, ZA-18. Balanced hardness, easy service, reliable for everyday barbers and stylists.
- Value stainless blends: 9Cr18MoV, 7Cr17MoV, AUS-8, Taiwanese/Korean stainless. Great for apprentices, backups, or high-rotation chemical stations.
- Legacy carbon & specialty: Traditional carbon steels, damascus cladding, cast stainless. Offer unique feel or price points but need focused care.
ScissorPedia Steel Tiers
Ranks highlight where an alloy sits on the performance curve. Every tier can be salon-ready—the badge simply signals the ceiling you can expect with great maintenance.
- Tier S · Flagship Powder metallurgy and cobalt systems with the longest edge life.
- Tier A · Pro Elite High-performance steels that balance longevity, glide, and serviceability.
- Tier B · Pro Workhorse Trusted alloys for everyday stylists and barbers.
- Tier C · Advanced Starter Upgraded entry steels that reward good habits.
- Tier D · Training & Backup Budget stainless options—keep expectations realistic.
Tier S · Flagship Performance
ATS-314
Hitachi ATS-314· Premium Hitachi Steel
Flagship cobalt stainless used when convex edges must glide with minimal drag.
- Hardness: 62–64 HRC after vacuum hardening.
- Toughness: High wear resistance with tempered resilience; punishes overtight pivots.
- Corrosion: Premium stainless response; wipe bleach and color immediately.
- Weight/feel: Medium-light forged blank that balances through the shank.
Maintenance
Sharpen twice per year and keep tension neutral to avoid micro-chipping.
Extramarise I Cobalt Alloy
Extramarise Processing Gen I
Silky-closing cobalt stainless that blends pure-cobalt glide with stainless durability for pro-facing convex shears.
- Hardness: 60–62 HRC once the Extramarise thermal cycle is complete.
- Toughness: Cobalt-heavy matrix delivers crisp bite yet rolls before it fractures.
- Corrosion: Stainless backbone keeps rust at bay through colour and humidity.
- Weight/feel: Featherlight close ideal for all-day precision work.
Maintenance
Wipe, dry, and oil daily; plan cobalt-capable service every 9–12 months.
Extramarise II Cobalt Alloy
Extramarise Processing Gen II
Reinforced cobalt stainless delivering silky glide plus extra rigidity for long-blade barbers and dry cutters.
- Hardness: 60–62 HRC with the second-generation Extramarise treatment.
- Toughness: Denser cobalt matrix holds alignment in longer blades without feeling brittle.
- Corrosion: Stainless/cobalt mix resists moisture and colour exposure.
- Weight/feel: Slightly firmer closing feel than Extramarise I—ideal for long strokes.
Maintenance
Wipe, oil, and tension daily; plan cobalt-trained service every 9–12 months.
Nano Powder Metal (NPM)
NPM
Ultra-premium powder stainless that rewards disciplined upkeep with exceptional slide performance and long service intervals.
- Hardness: 62–64 HRC after HIP + vacuum tempering.
- Toughness: Powder matrix keeps carbides uniform, limiting micro-chipping on dry work.
- Corrosion: Highly stainless; shrugs off colour bowls and humidity with prompt wipe-downs.
- Weight/feel: Balanced closing feel that stays smooth during long detail sessions.
Maintenance
Clean and oil after every guest; schedule certified powder-steel service annually.
Powder Damascus Alloy
Damascus Core (VG-10 / Powder)
Showcase powder laminate that combines flagship glide with boutique Damascus styling.
- Hardness: 60–62 HRC at the powder core with stainless cladding protection.
- Toughness: Laminated build brings flex while the core keeps razor bite.
- Corrosion: Stainless outer layers protect the etched finish from humidity.
- Weight/feel: Balanced, slightly damped close that highlights slide control.
Maintenance
Wipe, dry, and oil after each client; request Damascus-friendly polishing during service.
SG Powder High Metal
Powder High-Speed Metal SG
Top-tier powder stainless delivering elite edge life with stainless insurance for pro educators and precision stylists.
- Hardness: 62–65 HRC once sub-zero processing purges retained austenite.
- Toughness: Powder high-speed steel withstands demanding dry work without chipping.
- Corrosion: Stainless base resists humidity and chemical splash.
- Weight/feel: Firm, controlled closing feel ideal for precision cuts.
Maintenance
Wipe, oil, and tension daily; send to powder-trained sharpeners annually.
Stellite Alloy (Pure Cobalt)
Pure Cobalt Alloy· Stellite
Pure cobalt alloy delivering legendary glide, chemical immunity, and tactile feedback for barbers who cut by feel.
- Hardness: 50–55 HRC but cobalt carbides deliver excellent wear resistance.
- Toughness: Rolls rather than chips, rewarding careful handling.
- Corrosion: Practically rust-proof—ideal for chemical-heavy salons.
- Weight/feel: Silky, low-friction close prized by veteran barbers.
Maintenance
Wipe, dry, and oil after every guest; book cobalt specialists twice a year.
VG-10 (V Gold 10)
V Gold 10· VG10
Takefu’s signature stainless that bridges premium edge life with approachable serviceability.
- Hardness: 59–63 HRC from Takefu’s published heat treatment window.
- Toughness: Vanadium-carbide matrix balances wear resistance with forgiving toughness.
- Corrosion: High chromium plus cobalt bump keeps rust at bay when you clean daily.
- Weight/feel: Laminated builds feel light in hand with a stable spine.
Maintenance
Sharpen every 3–4 months in high-volume salons; wipe after chemical work.
ZA-18 Stainless Steel
Aichi ZA-18· ZA18 Stainless
Cobalt-boosted stainless that pairs elite edge retention with dependable chemical resistance—ideal for high-volume salons.
- Hardness: 61–63 HRC tempered for pro shears.
- Toughness: Molybdenum and cobalt additions keep the edge resilient under pressure.
- Corrosion: 17–18% chromium protects against bleach and humidity.
- Weight/feel: Polished convex blanks glide smoothly with light closing force.
Maintenance
Clean and oil after each client; cobalt-rich stainless still needs disciplined care.
Tier A · Pro Elite
ATS-34 Stainless Steel
154CM equivalent
Legacy Japanese stainless delivering convex-ready edges and long life without jumping to cobalt alloys.
- Hardness: 58–61 HRC via molybdenum-rich heat treatment.
- Toughness: Fine carbides balance wear resistance with reliable toughness.
- Corrosion: Stainless but needs timely wipe-downs after chemicals.
- Weight/feel: Medium heft that feels planted during precision work.
Maintenance
Keep tension neutral and schedule pro sharpening every 6 months for heavy use.
CMC Alloy Stainless Steel
Cobalt Molybdenum Carbon alloy· Extramarise steel
Marketing shorthand for cobalt–molybdenum stainless alloys tuned for premium Japanese shears.
- Hardness: 58–60 HRC via proprietary Extramarise treatment.
- Toughness: Cobalt/molybdenum mix keeps edges crisp yet resilient.
- Corrosion: Stainless with cobalt additives; wipe chemicals promptly.
- Weight/feel: Medium heft with silky closure.
Maintenance
Keep tension neutral and service with cobalt-capable sharpeners every 6 months.
Carbon Tool Steel
Blue/White Paper Steel· SK Series Carbon Steel
Legacy non-stainless steels prized for unmatched sharpness and tactile feedback, reserved for stylists who commit to meticulous maintenance.
- Hardness: 58–65 HRC delivers razor edges.
- Toughness: High carbon bite with minimal alloying—chips if abused.
- Corrosion: No chromium; rust develops rapidly without care.
- Weight/feel: Dense forged feel for silky closures.
Maintenance
Dry and oil after every client; avoid immersion disinfectants.
Cobalt Alloy Stainless Steel
Cobalt stainless· Extramarise cobalt alloy
Premium stainless family enriched with cobalt to deliver long edge life and glassy glide.
- Hardness: 59–62 HRC via cobalt/moly heat treatments.
- Toughness: Cobalt stiffens the matrix for long-lived convex edges.
- Corrosion: Highly stainless, even under salon chemicals.
- Weight/feel: Balanced feel with silky closing action.
Maintenance
Keep tension neutral and sharpen with cobalt-capable technicians.
Damascus (Pattern-Welded) Steel
Pattern-welded stainless· Layered powder Damascus
Showpiece shears combining premium core steels with etched stainless layers for aesthetics and smooth glide.
- Hardness: Controlled by the core steel, often VG-10 or powder alloys.
- Toughness: Layered cheeks add flex and protect the core.
- Corrosion: Stainless cladding helps resist staining.
- Weight/feel: Slightly heavier with a dampened, silky feel.
Maintenance
Clean and oil after every client; use Damascus-savvy sharpeners to preserve patterns.
High Cobalt Alloy (HC)
HC Cobalt Alloy
Versatile cobalt stainless delivering silky glide, stainless protection, and approachable maintenance for pro stylists.
- Hardness: Around 60–61 HRC when tempered to Okawa’s spec.
- Toughness: Cobalt + molybdenum matrix keeps edges resilient for daily work.
- Corrosion: Elevated cobalt content boosts stain resistance in humid salons.
- Weight/feel: Neutral, lightly damped close ideal for all-day use.
Maintenance
Clean and oil daily; schedule cobalt-friendly service every 9–10 months.
Micro Carbide Steel (Powder Ice-Hardened)
FRIODUR® Micro Carbide
Flagship Solingen powder stainless delivering long wear and corrosion resistance with the familiar feel of German-forged shears.
- Hardness: 60–62 HRC after powder forging and ice tempering.
- Toughness: Powder matrix plus sub-zero quench keeps edges resilient for bevel or convex profiles.
- Corrosion: Deep-chilled stainless resists moisture and sanitation chemicals.
- Weight/feel: Forged Solingen heft steadies long blades.
Maintenance
Clean and oil after chemical work; plan bevel-friendly service every 9–12 months.
V1 Carbon Steel
V Gold 1 (carbon)· Hitachi/Takefu V1
Ultra-refined carbon tool steel that rewards disciplined care with elite sharpness and tactile feedback.
- Hardness: 61–64 HRC after proper tempering delivers razor sharpness.
- Toughness: Low impurity billet keeps the grain tight for resilient tips.
- Corrosion: Minimal chromium—treat like carbon steel and dry constantly.
- Weight/feel: Lightweight forged blank with tactile bite in the close.
Maintenance
Wipe and oil immediately after service; carbon core rusts fast if neglected.
VG-1 (V Gold 1)
Aichi V Gold 1· VG1
Tough, stainless Japanese workhorse that bridges premium glide with approachable maintenance.
- Hardness: High-50s HRC keeps the edge keen without turning brittle.
- Toughness: Lean alloying leaves it tougher than VG-10—great for mixed techniques.
- Corrosion: Stainless matrix shrugs off moisture with routine wipe-downs.
- Weight/feel: Lightweight offset builds stay balanced for scissor-over-comb work.
Maintenance
Clean after each client, oil pivots, and plan convex polishing every 3–4 months in busy chairs.
VG-2 (V Gold 2)
V Gold 2· VG2
Stainless Japanese workhorse that rewards disciplined upkeep with longer intervals between sharpening than 5Cr/440A sets.
- Hardness: 59–61 HRC when tempered to Takefu’s recommended window.
- Toughness: Low-impurity melt and added molybdenum keep the edge resilient under salon workloads.
- Corrosion: Balanced chromium content resists humidity and chemical splash.
- Weight/feel: Forged blanks stay light and controllable for all-day use.
Maintenance
Wipe and dry after each client; schedule convex polishing every 6–8 weeks in high-volume salons.
Tier B · Pro Workhorse
440C Stainless Steel
SUS440C· AISI 440C
The dependable stainless baseline for pro shears—longer life than 420 grades without cobalt pricing.
- Hardness: 58–60 HRC once tempered.
- Toughness: Chromium carbides boost wear resistance while staying serviceable.
- Corrosion: High chromium stainless—rust resistant with disciplined wipe-downs.
- Weight/feel: Mid-weight forged blank that feels grounded in longer blades.
Maintenance
Clean after chemical work and plan quarterly pro service in busy salons.
9Cr18MoV Stainless Steel
90Cr18MoV· Chinese 440C equivalent
High-chromium stainless that mirrors 440C performance, giving stylists long edge life at a lower price point.
- Hardness: 58–61 HRC when properly heat treated, similar to 440C.
- Toughness: Higher carbon and molybdenum deliver strong wear resistance.
- Corrosion: 18% chromium shrugs off salon moisture and chemicals.
- Weight/feel: Forged heft provides stability for long blades.
Maintenance
Dry thoroughly and schedule sharpening every 4–6 months to preserve the hard edge.
AUS-8 Stainless Steel
AUS-8A· V Gold 8 (legacy branding)
Balanced Japanese stainless loved for its easy maintenance and reliable glide in professional salons.
- Hardness: 57–59 HRC delivers dependable edge life.
- Toughness: Vanadium and molybdenum balance hardness with resilience.
- Corrosion: Stainless enough for routine sanitation cycles.
- Weight/feel: Mid-weight forged blanks with smooth action.
Maintenance
Clean and oil daily; plan sharpening every 4 months for heavy salon use.
MV Stainless (Molybdenum-Vanadium)
Catch-all term for Japanese molybdenum–vanadium stainless that delivers smooth glide and reasonable longevity without cobalt pricing.
- Hardness: 56–58 HRC comparable to AUS-8/440B.
- Toughness: Molybdenum boosts wear resistance; vanadium keeps the edge fine.
- Corrosion: Stainless enough for routine sanitation.
- Weight/feel: Balanced mid-weight forged feel.
Maintenance
Wipe after chemicals, oil weekly, and sharpen every 3–4 months in high-volume salons.
SUS440C Stainless Steel
JIS SUS440C· Japanese 440C
Japanese-tuned 440C delivering reliable edge life with forgiving maintenance habits.
- Hardness: 58–60 HRC when vacuum tempered by Japanese forges.
- Toughness: Carbide-dense edge rolls before it chips—ideal for daily salon abuse.
- Corrosion: High chromium stainless; resists humidity and colour if you clean promptly.
- Weight/feel: Medium-weight blank that feels grounded without being sluggish.
Maintenance
Wipe after each client and book sharpening every quarter in busy salons.
Solingen Stainless Steel
German-forged stainless with consistent heat treatment, prized for reliability and easy servicing.
- Hardness: 4034/4037 steels hardened to 56–58 HRC.
- Toughness: Robust bevel edges for daily salon/barber use.
- Corrosion: Ice-hardened stainless resists moisture and chemicals.
- Weight/feel: Forged handles deliver stable, grounded feel.
Maintenance
Clean and oil daily; plan triannual sharpening for busy chairs.
Taiwan Stainless Steel
Taiwan stainless
Stainless workhorse option for stylists who need reliable corrosion resistance and serviceable edges without the premium of cobalt powders.
- Hardness: 55–58 HRC when 440C/9Cr billets are tempered for salon work.
- Toughness: Chromium-rich matrix rolls before it chips, so repairs stay straightforward.
- Corrosion: High chromium stainless shrugs off humidity and sanitation cycles with consistent wipe-downs.
- Weight/feel: Neutral forged balance keeps long shifts comfortable.
Maintenance
Wipe after chemical work, oil pivots weekly, and plan sharpening every 6–8 weeks in busy salons.
Tier C · Advanced Starter
4034 Stainless Steel (X46Cr13)
DIN 1.4034· X46Cr13
Classic Solingen stainless that balances edge life, corrosion resistance, and serviceability for everyday barbers.
- Hardness: 54–56 HRC under Solingen tempering routines.
- Toughness: Forgiving martensite that rolls instead of chipping when dropped.
- Corrosion: High chromium content handles daily sanitation cycles.
- Weight/feel: Forged density delivers stable, balanced strokes.
Maintenance
Quarterly professional service keeps the Solingen edge crisp; wipe after disinfectants.
4037 Stainless Steel (X65Cr13)
DIN 1.4037· X65Cr13
Hardenable Solingen stainless delivering dependable edge life for everyday barber and salon shears.
- Hardness: 55–57 HRC with ice hardening.
- Toughness: Higher carbon than 4034 gives longer life while staying forgiving.
- Corrosion: Built for Solingen sanitation cycles and humid salons.
- Weight/feel: Forged heft steadies long blades for barber work.
Maintenance
Wipe, dry, and oil daily; schedule sharpening every 3–4 months for busy chairs.
5Cr15MoV Stainless Steel
X50Cr15MoV· DIN 1.4116 (approximate)
Popular stainless for value shears—easy to sharpen, highly stainless, and forgiving under apprentice handling.
- Hardness: 56–58 HRC provides a noticeable jump over 3Cr/4Cr alloys.
- Toughness: Softer than 440C; rolls before it chips.
- Corrosion: 15% chromium keeps rust at bay in bleach-heavy stations.
- Weight/feel: Lightweight stampings; pairs with molded handles for comfort.
Maintenance
Wipe after chemicals and schedule sharpening every 6–8 weeks in high-volume salons.
6Cr13 Stainless Steel
X6Cr13· DIN 1.4000
Mid-tier Chinese stainless that delivers better retention than 3Cr/4Cr while keeping costs low.
- Hardness: 52–55 HRC offers more stability than 4Cr13.
- Toughness: Rolls instead of chipping, making it student-friendly.
- Corrosion: Stainless enough for bleach and perm stations.
- Weight/feel: Lightweight stampings, often paired with ergonomic handles.
Maintenance
Wipe and oil daily; book sharpening every 2–3 months with heavy use.
8Cr13MoV Stainless Steel
GB 8Cr13MoV· X50CrMoV15 equivalent (approx)
The value benchmark—mimics AUS-8 performance for budget stylist and barber shears.
- Hardness: 56–59 HRC when heat treated well.
- Toughness: Balanced—edge rolls slightly before chipping.
- Corrosion: 13% chromium plus molybdenum resists salon chemicals.
- Weight/feel: Nimble forged/stamped builds feel light but confident.
Maintenance
Wipe after sanitation and plan sharpening every 3–4 months in busy salons.
Korean Stainless Steel
Korean-made stainless that sits between Chinese entry steels and Japanese AUS-series—solid value with sensible upkeep.
- Hardness: Typically 420J2/440A equivalents around 56 HRC.
- Toughness: Forgiving matrix that rolls before chipping.
- Corrosion: High chromium; resists salon moisture.
- Weight/feel: Neutral weight with comfortable handles.
Maintenance
Wipe dry and tension weekly; expect seasonal sharpening.
Tier D · Training & Backup
3Cr13 Stainless Steel
X30Cr13· 420J2 Modified
Entry-level stainless chosen for training and backup shears where corrosion resistance and low cost trump edge life.
- Hardness: 52–55 HRC in standard tempering cycles.
- Toughness: Soft matrix rolls rather than chips; ideal for training environments.
- Corrosion: Stainless enough for chemical stations and classroom kits.
- Weight/feel: Lightweight stampings with bulk added in handles for balance.
Maintenance
Expect monthly sharpening under salon workloads; keep tension slightly firm to reduce roll.
4Cr13 Stainless Steel
40Cr13· DIN X40Cr13
Low-cost stainless a step above 3Cr13, common in entry salon and barber kits.
- Hardness: 50–52 HRC, slightly harder than 3Cr13.
- Toughness: Rolls rather than chips, forgiving for students.
- Corrosion: High chromium resists stains in chemical stations.
- Weight/feel: Lightweight stampings; handles add balance.
Maintenance
Clean, dry, and oil daily; monthly pro service keeps edges aligned.
7Cr17MoV Stainless Steel
7Cr Stainless
Budget-friendly stainless that gives apprentices a workable edge and chemical-safe backup tools without premium pricing.
- Hardness: 57–60 HRC, a step up from 5Cr alloys when heat treated well.
- Toughness: Added molybdenum/vanadium improve roll resistance without making it brittle.
- Corrosion: 17% chromium stainless protects against humidity and chemical splash.
- Weight/feel: Lightweight stamped builds feel nimble but less grounded than forged shears.
Maintenance
Wipe, dry, and oil after each guest; plan sharpening every 6–8 weeks with daily use.
Cast Stainless Steel
Mold-poured stainless used to hit low price points—fine for backups, not daily pro tools.
- Hardness: 48–54 HRC with large grain structure.
- Toughness: Brittle joints and porous blades decrease durability.
- Corrosion: Stainless surface resists rust but hides trapped moisture.
- Weight/feel: Often lightweight with hollow handles.
Maintenance
Inspect for cracks and sharpen frequently; replace at first sign of failure.
SUS410 Stainless Steel
Entry-level stainless used in training and utility shears—great for rust resistance, poor for edge life.
- Hardness: Soft stainless prioritising corrosion resistance.
- Toughness: Rolls instead of chips—great for safety shears.
- Corrosion: Excellent; resists rust even with heavy sanitation.
- Weight/feel: Lightweight stamped construction.
Maintenance
Clean and oil daily; expect frequent sharpening or replacement.
SUS420J2 Stainless Steel
Low-cost stainless used in mass-market and training shears where rust prevention matters more than edge life.
- Hardness: 52–54 HRC—slightly harder than SUS410 but still soft.
- Toughness: Rolls easily, forgiving for students.
- Corrosion: Excellent; designed for chemical-heavy environments.
- Weight/feel: Lightweight stamped builds.
Maintenance
Clean and oil daily; monthly sharpening recommended under heavy use.
Troubleshooting & maintenance checklist
- Edge feels draggy mid-day: Check tension and clean the pivot before blaming the steel. Excess spray residue can mimic dullness.
- Micro-chips along the edge: Your hardness is high for the technique. Drop tension slightly, avoid dry twisting, and log service history for your sharpener.
- Rust freckles near the heel: Moisture sat overnight. Switch to pH-neutral cleaning cloths, dry thoroughly, and oil the pivot.
- Blade feels heavy or unbalanced: Weight distribution comes from the forging, not just hardness. Pair the steel with the right length and handle ergonomics for your workflow.
Frequently asked questions
Is higher HRC always better?
Not automatically. Hardness between 62–64 HRC keeps a razor edge longer but chips faster on impact. Busy barbers often prefer 58–60 HRC martensitic stainless that rolls rather than fractures.
Can I trust a steel label on the blade?
Use it as a starting point. Ask for documentation from the manufacturer or distributor, and cross-check the alloy against the brand’s official catalog. Reputable makers (Takefu, Proterial/Hitachi, Mizutani, Böhler) publish their steel mixes.
How do I schedule sharpening around different steels?
Powder and cobalt alloys typically need 1–2 services per year with careful handling. Tier A/B martensitic stainless averages 3–4 sharpenings per year in high-volume shops. Entry steels may need quarterly touch-ups—build that cost into your pricing.