Men's Fade with Shears

Blend shear-over-comb fades with surgical precision while preserving control over weight lines.

Barber refining a fade with scissor-over-comb technique
Photo: Jonathan Cooper via Unsplash Unsplash

Tool selection

  • 6.5”–7.0” shear with beveled or micro-serrated edge.
  • Taper combs with varying widths.
  • Optional: swivel shear for wrist comfort.

Fade mapping

  1. Determine baseline length (skin, 0.5, 1 guard equivalent).
  2. Mark transition zones using comb or clip guides.
  3. Start at the shortest zone, moving upward with shear-over-comb strokes.

Shear-over-comb technique

  • Rest comb flat on head; angle determines weight buildup.
  • Move shear in rhythmic open/close while sliding comb upward.
  • Use shorter strokes near transition, longer strokes in blending zone.

Detailing

  • Use point cutting to soften any remaining weight lines.
  • Switch to smaller shear (5.5”) for around ears and detailing.
  • Finish with texturizer if needed for crown blending.

Practice schedule

  • Perform 3 mannequin fades weekly focusing on comb angle and rhythm.
  • Record your timing and blending smoothness; compare to clipper fades.

Maintenance note

High comb contact dulls blades faster—adhere to Sharpening Frequency Matrix.

Troubleshooting

Issue Solution
Visible steps Rework zone with lighter comb angle and point cutting
Dragging comb Clean blades and comb, adjust tension
Uneven blend Re-map weight line; cut with consistent comb depth

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