Advanced Layering Systems

Layering frameworks

1. Vertical layering: Classic elevation with consistent over-direction for balanced movement.
2. Round layering: Follows head shape; ideal for curls and shags.
3. Square layering: Maintains corners for strength—great for modern bobs.
4. Disconnected layering: Creates interior movement with longer exterior lengths.

Mapping process

• Analyze head shape and weight distribution before cutting.
• Mark panels on the head (front, crown, nape) with clips or chalk.
• Decide which panels require internal vs external removal.

Step-by-step workflow

1. Create a central vertical guideline.
2. Choose over-direction strategy (forward, backward, stationary).
3. Cut interior layers first to establish movement.
4. Blend or leave disconnections deliberately, depending on design.
5. Detail perimeter last for polish.

Drill: three-layer mashup

• On a mannequin, execute square layers on one side, round layers on the other, and compare fall lines.
• Document results with photos and notes.

Tool support

• Use longer blades (6.0”+) for efficiency.
• Keep edges sharp; layering requires precision through multiple sections.

Troubleshooting

Challenge	Solution
Flat crown	Increase elevation and add internal weight removal
Uneven movement	Revisit guideline placement and over-direction
Visible steps	Use Slide Cutting or point cutting to blend

Next level

Integrate with Shag Revival and Texture on Curl Patterns for advanced custom cuts.