Bohler N690 Austrian Cobalt Steel Gains Traction in European Scissors
Bohler-Uddeholm’s N690 (also designated N690CO) is gaining adoption among European scissors manufacturers seeking a high-performance alternative to the Japanese steels that have dominated the premium segment for decades. The Austrian-made cobalt-alloyed stainless steel offers a distinctive combination of hardness, corrosion resistance, and toughness that suits professional hairdressing applications well.
N690 Composition and Properties
The N690’s specification reads impressively: carbon 1.07%, chromium 17.0%, cobalt 1.50%, molybdenum 1.10%, vanadium 0.10%. It achieves a working hardness of HRC 58-60 after proper heat treatment.
The standout figure is chromium content at 17%. Most Japanese scissors steels sit in the 13-15% range — VG-10 at approximately 15%, AUS-8 at 13-14.5%. Higher chromium means superior corrosion resistance, a genuine advantage for scissors that encounter water, chemical treatments, and cleaning solutions daily in salon environments.
The cobalt addition refines the grain structure and improves hot hardness retention during heat treatment. This translates to a more consistent edge geometry across the full blade length — a detail that matters in scissors where both blade tips and the pivot area must perform precisely.
Context Within the Bohler Range
N690 is not Bohler’s only steel relevant to the scissors industry. Two others merit attention.
AEB-L, developed in 1928 specifically for razor blade applications, contains 0.67% carbon and achieves HRC 59-62. Its lower carbide volume creates an exceptionally fine edge that takes and holds a keen cutting angle. Some niche scissors makers use it for thinning shears where extreme sharpness matters more than long-term edge retention.
M390 Microclean, a powder metallurgy steel with 1.90% carbon and 20% chromium at HRC 60-62, represents the theoretical high end of what Bohler produces. It is primarily a knife steel, and its extreme hardness makes it challenging for scissors applications where some blade flex is desirable. A few experimental models exist, but it remains impractical for mainstream production.
Where N690 Fits in the Market
For European manufacturers, N690 offers a compelling proposition: performance comparable to VG-10 with better corrosion resistance and a European supply chain. It does not displace the Japanese premium steels — Hitachi’s SG-2 and Takefu’s VG-10 remain the benchmarks — but it provides a credible alternative that European makers can source without the lead times and logistics of importing from Japan.
For stylists, the practical difference between a well-made N690 scissor and a well-made VG-10 scissor is subtle. Both hold a working edge through a full day of cutting. The N690 may resist chemical corrosion marginally better; the VG-10 may take a slightly keener initial edge. Both are excellent working steels.