Thinning Shears: Why 30 Teeth vs 40 Teeth Actually Matters (And Which You Need)
“Just grab any thinning shears, they all do the same thing.”
That’s what they told me in school. That’s also why I spent two years creating stringy, damaged-looking hair and blaming it on my technique.
Turns out, using the wrong thinning shears is like doing surgery with a butter knife. Sure, you’ll remove something, but the results ain’t pretty.
After watching too many stylists struggle with texturizing, we did something crazy: we bought 23 different thinning shears and tested them on every hair type we could find.
What we learned will change how you think about those toothy scissors forever.
The Truth About Teeth Count
Let’s start with the big misconception: more teeth = less hair removed. WRONG.
It’s not about the number of teeth. It’s about:
- Tooth spacing
- Tooth width
- Tooth depth
- Blade design
- The actual cutting percentage
A 30-tooth shear might remove more hair than a 40-tooth. Mind. Blown.
The Real Numbers That Matter
20-25 Teeth: The Chunk Removers
- Removes: 40-50% of hair
- Best for: Dramatic weight removal
- Hair types: Thick, coarse, abundant
- Danger zone: Fine hair (creates holes)
30-35 Teeth: The Workhorses
- Removes: 25-35% of hair
- Best for: General texturizing
- Hair types: Most types
- Sweet spot: Versatile without being destructive
40-45 Teeth: The Refiners
- Removes: 15-25% of hair
- Best for: Subtle texture, blending
- Hair types: Fine to medium
- Perfect for: Finishing work
46+ Teeth: The Whispers
- Removes: 10-15% of hair
- Best for: Ultra-fine work
- Hair types: Damaged or very fine
- Use case: When you need invisible texture
The Cutting Percentage Lie
Every manufacturer claims their 40-tooth removes “25% of hair.” Bull. We tested it.
Real percentages vary based on:
- How deep you close the shears
- Angle of cut
- Hair tension
- How many times you cut the same section
That “25%” shear? Could be removing 15% or 35% depending on technique.
Teeth Types: The Game Changer
Not all teeth are created equal:
Straight Teeth
- Clean removal lines
- More aggressive cutting
- Better for dramatic texture
- Can leave marks if used wrong
Curved/Convex Teeth
- Softer removal
- Blends better
- More forgiving
- Takes more cuts for same effect
Double-Sided Teeth
- Cuts both directions
- Faster texturizing
- Higher skill requirement
- Easy to overdo it
V-Teeth
- Maximum hair removal
- Aggressive texturizing
- Not for beginners
- Creates serious texture
The Hair Type Matrix
We tested every combination. Here’s what actually works:
Fine Hair
Use: 40+ teeth, curved design Avoid: Anything under 35 teeth Why: Less teeth = visible holes
Medium Hair
Use: 30-40 teeth, your choice Avoid: Going too aggressive Why: Most forgiving hair type
Thick Hair
Use: 25-35 teeth for bulk, 40+ for finish Avoid: Only using fine-tooth shears Why: You’ll be there all day
Coarse Hair
Use: 25-30 teeth, straight design Avoid: Super fine teeth (they’ll skip) Why: Need aggressive removal
Curly Hair
Use: 40+ teeth always Avoid: Chunking shears Why: Curls amplify any mistakes
The Technique That Changes Everything
Here’s what nobody teaches: it’s not just about the shears.
The Depth Game
- Shallow close = less removal
- Deep close = more removal
- Control the percentage with your grip
The Angle Truth
- 45° angle = maximum removal
- 90° angle = softer removal
- Parallel = blending only
The Section Size Secret
- Smaller sections = more control
- Larger sections = faster but riskier
- Match section to teeth spacing
Common Thinning Shear Disasters
We’ve seen it all. Here’s what goes wrong:
“The Striped Tiger”
Using wide-tooth shears on fine hair. Creates visible stripes. Client cries.
“The Helmet Removal”
Over-thinning the top. Hair stands up like scared cat. No fix except growth.
“The Stringy Situation”
Wrong angle + too many passes = damaged-looking ends. Tragic.
“The Hole-y Horror”
Chunking shears on thin hair. Actual holes. Actual tears (from client).
Brand Recommendations by Type
Best Chunking Shears (20-30 teeth)
- Kamisori Texture Master - Removes perfectly
- Yasaka YT30 - Workhorse reliability
- Juntetsu Chunk - Surprisingly refined
Best All-Around (30-40 teeth)
- Hanzo Texture Series - Goldilocks of thinning
- Jaguar Ergo T - German precision
- Mizutani Thinner - Investment piece
Best Finishing (40+ teeth)
- Joewell Classic Thinner - Invisible texture
- Hikari Detail - For perfectionist
- Kasho Finishing - Whisper-quiet removal
The Maintenance Reality
Thinning shears need different care:
Cleaning: More important than regular shears
- Hair gets stuck in teeth
- Oil after every cleaning
- Use brush between teeth
Sharpening: Trickier than regular scissors
- Not everyone can do it right
- Teeth must stay aligned
- Find specialist sharpener
Storage: Keep them protected
- Teeth damage easily
- Don’t let them bang around
- Case is mandatory
The Investment Strategy
Unlike cutting shears, you need multiple thinning shears. Sorry, but it’s true.
Minimum Kit:
- One 30-35 tooth (versatile)
- One 40+ tooth (finishing)
Ideal Kit:
- 25-tooth chunker
- 35-tooth workhorse
- 45-tooth finisher
- Specialty shear for your clientele
When to Use What
New growth removal: 25-30 teeth Weight removal: 30-35 teeth Blending layers: 35-40 teeth Softening lines: 40-45 teeth Invisible texture: 45+ teeth
The Bottom Line
Thinning shears aren’t just “those scissors with teeth.” They’re precision tools that can make or break your haircuts.
The right thinning shear in skilled hands creates movement, removes weight, and adds life to hair. The wrong one creates damage, visible lines, and unhappy clients.
Start with one good 35-tooth shear. Learn it inside and out. Then expand based on your clientele.
And please, PLEASE, stop using that ancient 20-tooth chunker on fine hair. The hair gods are watching, and they’re judging.
Questions about thinning shears? Send them to tips@scissorpedia.com. We’re creating a comprehensive teeth-count guide based on reader questions.
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