Scissor Steel Explained: Why Your $600 VG10s Aren't Actually Better Than 440C

“You get what you pay for with steel.” That’s what the sales guy told me while pushing $800 VG10 scissors. “440C is basically trash compared to this Japanese super steel.”

Fast forward two years. Those “super steel” scissors? They chipped. My friend’s “trash” 440C scissors? Still going strong after 5 years.

So we did something nobody else bothered to do: we bought scissors in every major steel type and tested them. Really tested them. 15 different steels, 6 months, thousands of cuts.

What we found will probably piss off every scissor salesman in a 50-mile radius.

The Truth About Steel Types

First, let’s kill the biggest myth: expensive steel doesn’t automatically mean better scissors.

Steel is like car engines. A Ferrari engine in a Yugo is still gonna drive like crap. The best steel with poor heat treatment, bad design, or wrong application? Expensive garbage.

The Real-World Steel Breakdown

440C: The Unfairly Hated Workhorse

What they tell you: “Entry-level steel, upgrade ASAP” What we found: Properly treated 440C is bulletproof

• Hardness: 58-60 HRC (when done right)
• Edge retention: 6-8 months typical
• Sharpening: Easy, any competent sharpener can handle it
• Durability: Tanks. Drops, dings, general abuse? Shrugs it off

The secret: Good 440C scissors at $300 often outperform bad VG10 scissors at $600.

Best for: Daily workhorses, high-volume cutting, people who drop things

VG10: The Overhyped “Super Steel”

What they tell you: “Japanese super steel with gold and vanadium!” What we found: Great when done right, overpriced marketing BS when done wrong

• Hardness: 59-61 HRC
• Edge retention: 8-12 months (if you baby them)
• Sharpening: Needs someone who knows VG10
• Durability: Chips if you look at it wrong

The reality: VG10 holds an edge longer but is more brittle. Drop them? Pray.

Best for: Careful stylists, fine detail work, showing off

ATS314: The Sleeper Hit

What they tell you: Not much, because it’s not sexy What we found: The sweet spot nobody talks about

• Hardness: 59-60 HRC
• Edge retention: 8-10 months
• Sharpening: Easier than VG10
• Durability: Tougher than VG10, holds edge better than 440C

Why we love it: It’s the Goldilocks steel. Not too hard, not too soft, just right.

Best for: Professionals who want performance without babying their tools

The Premium Players

Damascus Steel

• Pretty patterns from layered steel
• Performance varies WILDLY by manufacturer
• Often more about looks than function
• 2x the price for 10% better performance (maybe)

Cobalt Alloys

• Increased hardness and wear resistance
• Actually makes a difference in edge retention
• More expensive but often worth it
• Best for high-volume cutting

Powdered Steels (like ZDP-189)

• Cutting-edge (pun intended) technology
• Insane edge retention
• Insane sharpening difficulty
• Insane prices

The Hardness Game (Rockwell Ratings)

Everyone obsesses over Rockwell ratings. Higher = better, right? Wrong.

54-57 HRC: Softer, easier to sharpen, more durable 58-60 HRC: Sweet spot for most stylists 61-63 HRC: Holds edge forever, chips if you breathe wrong 64+ HRC: Specialty territory, not for daily use

The magic is in balance, not extremes.

The Test Results That Shocked Us

We tracked edge retention, ease of sharpening, and durability. The winners?

Best Overall Performance: ATS314 (Yasaka, specifically) Best Value: Well-treated 440C (Jaguar Pre Style) Best Edge Retention: ZDP-189 (but good luck sharpening it) Most Overhyped: Low-quality VG10 Biggest Surprise: Some 440C outperformed VG10 at half the price

The Heat Treatment Secret

Here’s what scissor companies don’t want you to know: heat treatment matters more than steel type.

Perfectly treated 440C > Poorly treated VG10. Every. Single. Time.

Good heat treatment:

• Maximizes the steel’s potential
• Ensures consistent hardness
• Prevents brittleness
• Costs money (which is why cheap scissors skip it)

How Different Steels Feel

440C: Smooth, forgiving, “normal” feeling VG10: Crispy, precise, less forgiving ATS314: Smooth but holds the bite longer Damascus: Varies, often smooth Cobalt alloys: Aggressive bite that lasts

Maintenance by Steel Type

Easy Maintenance (440C, German steels)

• Any sharpener can handle them
• Regular cleaning and oiling
• Forgiving of neglect

Moderate Maintenance (ATS314, Cobalt alloys)

• Need sharpeners familiar with the steel
• Regular care important
• Some forgiveness for mistakes

High Maintenance (VG10, Damascus, Powdered steels)

• Specialist sharpeners only
• Religious about cleaning/oiling
• One mistake = expensive lesson

The Cost-Benefit Analysis

Under $300 (Usually 440C or equivalent):

• Great for starting out
• Workhorse reliability
• Easy maintenance
• Replace without tears

$300-600 (Mixed steel types):

• Research specific models
• Steel type less important than build quality
• Sweet spot for most pros

$600+ (Premium steels):

• Diminishing returns
• For specific needs or preferences
• Not automatically “better”

Choosing Steel for Your Needs

High-Volume Stylists: Go cobalt alloy or quality ATS314. Edge retention matters when you’re cutting 40+ heads.

Detail Specialists: VG10 or premium Damascus. The precision is worth the maintenance.

New Professionals: Start with 440C. Learn your preferences before spending big.

Clumsy People (No Judgment): 440C or German steel. They forgive your mistakes.

Sharpening Deserts: If good sharpeners are rare, stick with 440C.

The Bottom Line

The “best” steel is the one that matches your:

• Cutting style
• Maintenance habits
• Access to sharpening
• Budget reality

Don’t let anyone shame you for using 440C. Don’t assume VG10 makes you a better stylist. And definitely don’t buy based on steel type alone.

Good scissors are about the total package: steel, heat treatment, design, and build quality. Obsessing over steel type while ignoring the rest is like buying a car based solely on horsepower.

Our Steel Recommendations

Best All-Around: ATS314 (Yasaka’s version is stellar) Best Value: Quality 440C (Jaguar, Joewell) Best for Experts: VG10 (Mizutani, Hikari) Best for Beginners: 440C all day Most Overrated: Cheap VG10 Dark Horse: Cobalt alloys

Remember: A great stylist with 440C scissors beats a hack with Damascus every time. It’s not about the steel in your scissors; it’s about the skill in your hands.

Got questions about steel types? Send them to tips@scissorpedia.com. We’re building a database of steel performance by brand.