Hair Types
Hair texture controls how far a strand will travel before it meets your edge. Use this hub to map each curl pattern to the blades, edges, and texturizing tools that keep the cut crisp without compromising the fiber.
Quick answers for stylists & barbers
- Fighting push on slippery straight hair? Pair micro-serrated bevels with feather-light tension, then switch to semi-convex or convex shears for floaty texture.
- Managing dense waves or curls? Cut dry where the pattern lives; convex blades glide without raising frizz, while texturizers stay inside the shape only.
- Protecting coils from breakage? Use ultra-sharp convex shears, micro-sections, and dusting techniques—skip thinning tools entirely to preserve the curl cluster.
Hair type playbook
- Type 1 · Straight (1A-1C): Work precision first, then texture. Micro-serrated bevels secure the strand for blunt lines; convex edges handle internal debulking. Keep texturizing away from the perimeter.
- Type 2 · Wavy (2A-2C): Cut dry with polished convex blades. Respect the S-pattern using low tension, mid-tooth texturizers, and high-tooth blenders for soft blends.
- Type 3 · Curly (3A-3C): Group curls and cut them where they live. Ultra-sharp convex shears keep ends clean. Avoid traditional thinning; if blending is essential, stay inside the shape with high tooth-count blenders.
- Type 4 · Coily (4A-4C): Hydrate, stretch to assess, release, then snip with surgical-sharp convex blades. Focus on dusting and shape refinement—no thinning tools, ever.
Shear pairing cheat sheet
- Blade profiles: Flat bevel shears for rigid control on straight hair; semi-convex shears for mixed techniques; convex shears for dry, textured, and curl work.
- Edge finishes: Micro-serrated edges prevent slippage on 1A-1C; polished convex edges deliver slide and point cutting on textured hair.
- Texturizing shears: 40-50T blenders for soft blending; 25-35T texturizers for mid-density debulking; 10-16T chunkers for internal collapse on heavy hair only.
Troubleshooting checklist
- Perimeter collapsing: You over-thinned fine straight hair—switch to higher tooth-count blenders and stay off the last inch.
- Halo frizz on waves: Too much surface thinning or dull convex edges. Re-cut dry with polished blades and internal texturizing.
- Uneven curl shelves: You elevated or tensioned the section. Drop elevation, cut curl-by-curl, and dust ends instead of slicing.
- Coils losing definition: Thinning or razor tools disrupted the cluster. Focus on micro trims with ultra-sharp convex shears and restore moisture immediately after cutting.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need different shears for each curl pattern?
One premium semi-convex or convex blade covers most work, but pairing a micro-serrated bevel with straight hair and a polished convex with textured hair will noticeably improve control and finish.
Can I texturize curly and coily hair?
Use texturizers sparingly, inside the shape, and only with high tooth counts. For coils, skip them altogether; rely on dusting, micro-sectioning, and strategic internal shaping.
How often should textured clients return for maintenance?
Straight hair can stretch 8-10 weeks; waves and curls benefit from 10-12 week intervals; coils can extend to 12-14 weeks if the client protects ends and maintains moisture.
Explore related guides: Edge Types • Blade Types • Handle Types
Hair Type x Scissor Matrix
Match every client with the blade, edge, and length that will behave on their strands, then double-check the do and do not list before you start cutting.
- Locate the client's hair type row (1A through 4C).
- Start with columns marked or .
- Scan the matching do and do not panel to confirm edge choice, tension, and finishing steps.
Tool families at a glance
-
Bevel + Micro
Flat Bevel (Micro-Serrated)
Grip-heavy edge for blunt lines and scissor-over-comb.
-
Semi-Convex
Semi-Convex (All-Round)
Balanced glide and control for daily salon work.
-
Convex
Convex (Slide/Point/Dry)
Silky slide and point work on polished blades.
-
Blender 40-50T
Blender 40-50T
High-tooth blender for soft weight removal.
-
Texturizer 25-35T
Texturizer 25-35T
Medium-tooth texturizer for diffused movement.
-
Chunker 10-16T
Chunker 10-16T
Chunker teeth for bold texture on dense hair.
-
Long 6.5-8
Long 6.5-8 in
Extended blades for reach and scissor-over-comb.
-
Short 4.5-5.5
Short 4.5-5.5 in
Compact blades for precision and tight control.
-
Dry Wide Blade
Dry-Cut Wide Blade
Wide dry-cut blade for supportive slide and channel work.
| Hair type | Bevel + Micro | Semi-Convex | Convex | Blender 40-50T | Texturizer 25-35T | Chunker 10-16T | Long 6.5-8 | Short 4.5-5.5 | Dry Wide Blade |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1A Glass Straight Fine Hair | Best | Good | Good | Good | Caution | Avoid | Good | Best | Caution |
| 1B Straight Hair with Swing | Best | Best | Good | Good | Good | Avoid | Good | Best | Good |
| 1C Dense Straight Heavy Hair | Best | Good | Good | Caution | Best | Good | Best | Good | Good |
| 2A Loose Wave Hair | Good | Good | Best | Good | Caution | Avoid | Good | Good | Best |
| 2B Balanced S-Wave Hair | Good | Good | Best | Good | Good | Caution | Good | Good | Best |
| 2C Strong Wave Dense Hair | Caution | Good | Best | Caution | Best | Caution | Good | Good | Best |
| 3A Loose Spiral Curl Hair | Avoid | Good | Best | Caution | Caution | Avoid | Caution | Good | Best |
| 3B Classic Ringlet Curl Hair | Avoid | Good | Best | Caution | Avoid | Avoid | Caution | Good | Best |
| 3C Tight Corkscrew Curl Hair | Avoid | Good | Best | Avoid | Avoid | Avoid | Caution | Best | Best |
| 4A Soft Spring Coily Hair | Avoid | Good | Best | Avoid | Avoid | Avoid | Caution | Best | Best |
| 4B Tight Zigzag Coily Hair | Avoid | Good | Best | Avoid | Avoid | Avoid | Caution | Best | Best |
| 4C Delicate Micro Coily Hair | Avoid | Good | Best | Avoid | Avoid | Avoid | Caution | Best | Best |
Do and do not guides by hair type
Ultra fine straight hair needs micro-serrated control and minimal thinning.
Do
- Use micro-serrated bevel for crisp blunt lines and scissor-over-comb
- Keep pivot tension light to avoid pushing hair
- Use semi-convex/convex for gentle slide and point cutting
Do not
- Don't over-thin fine ends; prefer high-tooth blenders if needed
- Don't slide cut with a serrated blade
Straight hair with slightly more density; mix grip tools with softer edges.
Do
- Switch between bevel (blunt) and semi-convex/convex (texture) as needed
- Use moderate thinning away from the perimeter
Do not
- Don't thin near the ends on finer sections
Dense straight hair needs supportive blades plus interior slide work.
Do
- Control pushing with micro-serrated bevel for blunt and over-comb
- Channel bulk with slide shears or 20-24T texturizers from the mid-shaft
Do not
- Don't over-thin surface layers; avoid visible lines
Loose waves respond to convex glide plus light support for blunt work.
Do
- Dry cut to read the wave; use razor carving and sharp convex for slicing
- Point cut for soft movement
Do not
- Don't thin the ends; it increases frizz
S-pattern waves need balanced slide and frizz management.
Do
- Use convex for smooth slicing and internal texture
- Blend with 35-45T only through the mid-shaft when density demands it
Do not
- Don't use serrated edges for slide cutting or thin near the perimeter
Defined waves demand gentle debulking with slide work and careful tool pressure.
Do
- Work dry with convex edges; debulk internally with 20-24T
- Channel weight with slide shears once you can see the finished pattern
Do not
- Don't thin the perimeter or overload the roots
Loose curls prefer convex edges and careful, minimal texturizing.
Do
- Cut dry with minimal tension; follow curl groupings
- Use very sharp convex for point/snipping
Do not
- Don't use traditional thinning near the ends
Medium curls need controlled glide; avoid tools that rough up the pattern.
Do
- Keep elevation low; cut where curls live
- If blending, use high-tooth blenders very sparingly inside
Do not
- Don't texturize with low-tooth shears; avoid chunkers
Dense corkscrews stay healthy with precise dry work and no chunking.
Do
- Work curl-by-curl on dry hair; maintain moisture/conditioning
- Use shorter blades for control
Do not
- Don't use thinning tools; they disrupt pattern and weaken ends
Coily spring patterns stay happiest when you cut hydrated coils with sharp convex edges.
Do
- Prep with leave-in, then stretch and release coils as you cut with convex edges
- Dust ends only; preserve coil integrity
Do not
- Don't use thinning or chunking shears
Tighter coils require saturated sections, supportive blades, and zero thinning.
Do
- Minimal tension; refine lines, avoid debulking tools
- Use shorter blades for precision
Do not
- Don't thin or slice aggressively
Fragile coils demand gentle, infrequent passes with maximum protection.
Do
- Small sections; stretch-check; release and refine
- Keep blades very sharp; light touch
Do not
- Don't use thinning or chunkers; avoid serrated slide cuts
References
- Kasho (Kai Group): Scissor Edge Types — convex, semi‑convex, bevel. https://www.kasho-usa.com/pages/scissor-edge-types
- Jatai (Feather): Differences Between Convex and Beveled Shears. https://jatai.net/blog/what-are-the-differences-between-convex-and-beveled-shears
- Wolff Industries: What Are Thinning Shears and When to Use Them (education from a sharpening manufacturer). https://wolffindustries.com/blogs/news/what-are-thinning-shears-and-when-to-use-them
- Milady Standard Cosmetology (Cengage): widely used professional textbook covering shear types and texturizing fundamentals. https://www.cengage.com/c/milady-standard-cosmetology-14e-milady/
- Milady Standard Barbering (Cengage): professional barbering fundamentals, tool usage and texturizing. https://www.cengage.com/c/milady-standard-barbering-6e-milady/