Matching Shears to Density & Texture
Choose the right shear and cutting pattern for fine, medium, and coarse hair types in minutes.
Fast density assessment
- Visual check: Look at scalp visibility.
- Strand test: Roll a single strand between fingers—fine feels silky, coarse feels sturdy.
- Volume test: Lift a horizontal section; note how much bulk gathers in your fingers.
Record density in your consultation notes so future visits start faster.
Tool & technique matrix
| Density | Primary shear | Support tool | Technique focus |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine | 5.25”–5.75” convex with narrow blade | 30-tooth blender | Light tension, minimal texturizing, point cutting for movement |
| Medium | 5.75”–6.0” convex or micro-serrated | 27-tooth blender or 6.0” slide shear | Balanced tension, mix of blunt and point cutting |
| Coarse | 6.0”–6.5” beveled or convex with more weight | 14–20 tooth texturizer or notcher | Strong tension, controlled debulking, shear-over-comb |
Texture considerations
- Straight: Reflects weight lines easily—keep sections precise.
- Wavy: Embrace natural pattern with slide and point cutting.
- Curly/coily: Cut on dry hair when possible; respect shrinkage and curl groupings.
Script for clients
- “Your hair is medium density with a wavy pattern, so I’m using a 5.75” convex shear for the main cut and a blender to soften the ends without removing too much weight.”
Maintenance tie-in
Log the shear choices and density in a shared maintenance log. When you review the log, you’ll know which tools are used hardest and should be sharpened first.
Combine this guide with Tool Fit Assessment and Specialty Shear Catalog.